That same year, the Asia Society in New York commissioned a story on Chan’s favourite Chinese restaurants. Chan wrote back with a dry list. When the editor followed up, asking why his list only contained places in California and none in New York, he replied with a casual aside, explaining how, in his opinion, New York Chinese food had been stagnating for years as immigration patterns shifted, and was rotten compared with that available in California.
Without Chan’s permission, the editor published his aside along with his list.
“I was horrified,” Chan says. “That was not meant for public consumption, but that thing hit such a nerve.”